[NA] Please help with price on 1992 in Texas [Archive] (2024)

John Bennett

20th June 2022, 14:02

My Dad wants me to sell his Miata with 92k miles on it.

I'm having terrible time determining a fair asking price.

Please anyone, view these photos and advise on a ball-park estimate.

Located in Lufkin, Texas. No accidents ever. No modifications. Garage kept. Fastidious maintenance. It was his baby for decades, but he is too old to drive it now.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DBEJpdQfkuZ1xATq9

Any help appreciated!

Thank you so much, John Bennett

huesmann

21st June 2022, 08:22

Honestly, that car may be BaT-worthy. Otherwise, maybe $8,000? I'd try to get rid of the ding strip if possible.

What's with the yellow upper coolant hose?

Myah's Daddy

21st June 2022, 09:40

John Bennett

21st June 2022, 11:32

What happened to the Mazda sticker on the front bumper?

I did not know it ever had a sticker.

I will ask my Dad when I visit his house today.

This is good information I need to know. Thank you.

John Bennett

21st June 2022, 11:36

Honestly, that car may be BaT-worthy. Otherwise, maybe $8,000? I'd try to get rid of the ding strip if possible.

What's with the yellow upper coolant hose?

All price estimates are greatly appreciated.

What is a "ding strip" ?

Thank you for pointing out the radiator hose. It is indeed ugly. I will go to O'Reilly and see if they have replacements in stock, then take new photographs.

Thank you!

angelduro

21st June 2022, 15:00

Here are some from BAT,
https://bringatrailer.com/mazda/miata/?q=miata
Looking at the white 91 with similar mileage that sold yesterday for $9800, Your car appears much cleaner and many white cars had issue with peeling paint. Also, pictures 88 and 89 show two paint (and bodywork?) repairs that are messy and I’d guess were rust repair. If Dad’s car is as clean underneath as engine bay indicates it’s well worth putting on BaT.
One thing that I think helped the strong bidding on the white 91 was a very engaged and proactive seller.

“Ding strip” is the molding on the belt line (midpoint) of the door and 1/4 panel/ fenders. Should be removable with care, a heat gun and some polishing compound.
Nice car.

tom4416

21st June 2022, 15:09

The ding strip is the added on body side molding to help prevent dings from other car doors. It looks hideous and is hopefully just bonded on with the double sided tape most of them come with. The other alternative is that is was pop riveted on by the dealer but that is highly doubtful.

The sticker is there but the front bumper sure looks like it's a couple shades different than the rest of the car. Could just be the lighting but the front bumper also has a VIN sticker, just a little harder to see since you have to crawl under the car but worth looking for.

It appears to be a well kept car - radiator is almost surely new to still look that good, not sure why the radiator hose wouldn't have been changed at the same time. This is a case where maintenance records are going to play a huge roll in the value. If it's well documented, all maintenance done on time including a relatively recent timing belt/water pump service, shocks, tires, brakes, fluids, etc., then I wouldn't take less than $10K for it. If it has needs maintenance wise, then closer to $8,000 and if it has no maintenance history or the history is spotty or outright shows neglect then somewhere south of the $8,000 mark. I don't suspect this is the case given the overall condition of the car.

Bob_MX5

21st June 2022, 17:07

The ding strip is the added on body side molding to help prevent dings from other car doors. It looks hideous and is hopefully just bonded on with the double sided tape most of them come with. The other alternative is that is was pop riveted on by the dealer but that is highly doubtful.

The sticker is there but the front bumper sure looks like it's a couple shades different than the rest of the car. Could just be the lighting but the front bumper also has a VIN sticker, just a little harder to see since you have to crawl under the car but worth looking for.

It appears to be a well kept car - radiator is almost surely new to still look that good, not sure why the radiator hose wouldn't have been changed at the same time. This is a case where maintenance records are going to play a huge roll in the value. If it's well documented, all maintenance done on time including a relatively recent timing belt/water pump service, shocks, tires, brakes, fluids, etc., then I wouldn't take less than $10K for it. If it has needs maintenance wise, then closer to $8,000 and if it has no maintenance history or the history is spotty or outright shows neglect then somewhere south of the $8,000 mark. I don't suspect this is the case given the overall condition of the car.

Rad is aftermarket (no oem tags) /new-ish for sure. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

I suspect it's a $9k-$10k on CL given the mileage.

B.

Myah's Daddy

21st June 2022, 17:50

It appears to be a well kept car - radiator is almost surely new to still look that good.

I know my radiator hoses have been replaced, but doubt the radiator has on my 91. It still has good color to it. I know when they turn green it's bad, but not all old radiators turn brown or green.

Myah's Daddy

21st June 2022, 17:52

The sticker is there but the front bumper sure looks like it's a couple shades different than the rest of the car. Could just be the lighting but the front bumper also has a VIN sticker, just a little harder to see since you have to crawl under the car but worth looking for.

Yes the sticker is there, I just couldn't see it on my phone.

TacticalSpeed

21st June 2022, 18:11

Honestly, that car may be BaT-worthy. Otherwise, maybe $8,000? I'd try to get rid of the ding strip if possible.

What's with the yellow upper coolant hose?

92k miles? It's not a collector car

chacend

21st June 2022, 18:51

92k miles? It's not a collector car

Many driver quality cars are sold on BAT everyday, its not just collector level cars.

hal1

21st June 2022, 23:57

huesmann

22nd June 2022, 08:30

The ding strip is the added on body side molding to help prevent dings from other car doors. It looks hideous and is hopefully just bonded on with the double sided tape most of them come with. The other alternative is that is was pop riveted on by the dealer but that is highly doubtful.
If you elect to try peeling it off, it may be worth heating it up a little with a heat gun to soften the adhesive to minimize the chance of taking paint off with it.
The sticker is there but the front bumper sure looks like it's a couple shades different than the rest of the car. Could just be the lighting but the front bumper also has a VIN sticker, just a little harder to see since you have to crawl under the car but worth looking for.

Yep, the MAZDA sticker is there—it's just the dark lighting that makes it hard to see. I don't think there are any shenanigans with the paint, though. The paint on the bumpers often ages at a different rate than the paint on the sheet metal, and photos can exacerbate a difference that may not be as visible in person.

If everything is on the up and up, it may well indeed be worth $10k.

sdcrjohn

22nd June 2022, 09:28

As others have suggested, submit it to BaT with lots and lots of photos, like 150. Don’t hide any defects. Be transparent. Stay engaged with questions, and try not to react to negative comments.

You’ll probably enjoy the experience, and the monetary result should be very good.

Bob_MX5

22nd June 2022, 09:56

As others have suggested, submit it to BaT with lots and lots of photos, like 150. Don’t hide any defects. Be transparent. Stay engaged with questions, and try not to react to negative comments.

You’ll probably enjoy the experience, and the monetary result should be very good.

This ^^^.

There's a red 90 on BaT now (closes tomorrow) with half the mileage of the OP's, but with a very not-Texas gross and disgusting crusty chassis. At close, it will be an interesting example of flaws the BaT buying public are willing to accept.

B.

aka_e

22nd June 2022, 22:26

This ^^^.

There's a red 90 on BaT now (closes tomorrow) with half the mileage of the OP's, but with a very not-Texas gross and disgusting crusty chassis. At close, it will be an interesting example of flaws the BaT buying public are willing to accept.

B.

That car isn't worth the $7,000 it's bid to (to me). It'll be really interesting to see what it closes at. Needless to say, it's quite rough for only 43k.

aka_e

22nd June 2022, 22:33

But yes, I agree with everyone else. This car is definitely BaT material if you want the most out of it. Looks to be a really nice example of a '92 A-package. The bump-guard on the side has got to go, though.

I think $9-10k is a fair ask if you decide to list it on CL or FB marketplace. Oh, how's the AC? Functional? Still running R-12 or upgraded to R-134a?

huesmann

23rd June 2022, 07:39

sdcrjohn

23rd June 2022, 09:01

People enjoy the BaT experience? :eek:

Possibly.

If all goes well, and the outcome is at, or above expectations, the seller might just enjoy the experience. I am going by anecdotal comments by some sellers that have said that the the BaT process was good.

I fully acknowledge that the auction week could also turn out to be a negative experience, for some.

John Bennett

23rd June 2022, 09:49

Thank you for the excellent advice everyone!

Yesterday I replaced that radiator hose because it was indeed hideous. :)

https://i.imgur.com/YdU2ZxI.png

John Bennett

23rd June 2022, 09:55

Per everyone's advice, I added new photos of the engine, the underside, and the maintenance records.

I also made photos of a crack in the back window, and a crack in the folding top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DBEJpdQfkuZ1xATq9

I spoke with my Dad. He confirmed the Miata was never in an accident, and never had any body work done.

Records show he replaced the: Radiator / hoses / thermostat, Clutch Slave Cylinder, Timing Belt / tensioner / idle pulley, Cam and Crank seals, plus all the belts.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to get one of those "Carfax" reports on a car this old? I've never bought one before.

sdcrjohn

23rd June 2022, 10:11

...Do you think it would be worthwhile to get one of those "Carfax" reports on a car this old? I've never bought one before.

Having a CarFax on hand when selling, is a good idea. It can assuage prospective buyers concerns.

However, be aware that if you are going to list it on the
Bring A Trailer auction, they will add a CarFax at no additional cost. I believe that BaT fee is about $99. For a basic auction listing.

Bob_MX5

23rd June 2022, 10:13

Per everyone's advice, I added new photos of the engine, the underside, and the maintenance records.

I also made photos of a crack in the back window, and a crack in the folding top.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DBEJpdQfkuZ1xATq9

I spoke with my Dad. He confirmed the Miata was never in an accident, and never had any body work done.

Records show he replaced the: Radiator / hoses / thermostat, Clutch Slave Cylinder, Timing Belt / tensioner / idle pulley, Cam and Crank seals, plus all the belts.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to get one of those "Carfax" reports on a car this old? I've never bought one before.

Carfax tends to miss previous accident history on older cars, but with the NA, most folk just look for the body VIN tags for proof of original panels.

That said, carfax can support the mileage shown on the odometer. Most states (but not all) record mileage every year if they have inspections. So the carfax gives a record of annual mileage. For that reason, I never buy a car without a carfax and I certainly appreciate when the seller provides one. If not, it's cheap insurance for me to avoid a rolled-back odometer.

B.

tom4416

23rd June 2022, 21:10

After looking at the additional photos, some comments to offer:

Maintenance was good, not anal like I am. WP should have been done with TB but shop said it didn't need it (but now it likely does and it's the same labor all over again). The shocks are original and were last good at around 60K miles - a lot of buyers won't know this but the car is handling less than optimal because of it. The top needs to be replaced - the rip and crack in the window detract from the overall impression of the car. Don't see a note about tires being recent so that could be an issue if they are <6-7 years old.

Undercarriage is daily driver dirty/crusty. Nothing under there upsets me, some of the bolts are going to be knuckle busters with rust but nothing some overnight soaking in Kroil won't fix for the person so inclined. Is it worth making it pristine? Probably not at those miles given the time and effort it would take.

In my mind, to make it a needs nothing car is going to cost around $1,500 for shocks, top and WP replacement. Another $500 for tires if they are old. This all makes it an $8,000-$8,500 car. However, in this day and age there are a lot of people who will overlook a lot of this (probably not the top though) and may well pay $9,000-$9,500 for it. It would have great appeal to me as a driver at the $8,000 level but I'm not a BaT buyer and, unfortunately, not in a Miata any longer although starting knee replacements next month so might be back in the drivers seat in a year :jump:

Final word - if you do list it on BaT, be prepared to get beat up over the top, shocks, etc..There are nitpicker extraordinaire on that site that live to pick apart any and all cars being listed with no intention of every buying one but that's just life in the Internet age.

huesmann

24th June 2022, 09:15

You should have retained the OEM spring clips for the radiator hose, if they were in good shape.

I'm actually on the other side; a new owner will typically want to replace wear items with stuff of their preference, not yours. Just be up font and say, "I know this stuff needs replacing, but I refrained to give the new owner their choice—feel free to reflect this in your bid."

DEye

24th June 2022, 09:35

My 2 cents,
Leaking shock on the passenger side front, means a new set.
It’s going to need bushings all around.
It’s in nice shape but it’s not New anymore…

$7,000 tops

Bob_MX5

24th June 2022, 09:54

After looking at the additional photos, some comments to offer:

Maintenance was good, not anal like I am. WP should have been done with TB but shop said it didn't need it (but now it likely does and it's the same labor all over again). The shocks are original and were last good at around 60K miles - a lot of buyers won't know this but the car is handling less than optimal because of it. The top needs to be replaced - the rip and crack in the window detract from the overall impression of the car. Don't see a note about tires being recent so that could be an issue if they are <6-7 years old.

Undercarriage is daily driver dirty/crusty. Nothing under there upsets me, some of the bolts are going to be knuckle busters with rust but nothing some overnight soaking in Kroil won't fix for the person so inclined. Is it worth making it pristine? Probably not at those miles given the time and effort it would take.

In my mind, to make it a needs nothing car is going to cost around $1,500 for shocks, top and WP replacement. Another $500 for tires if they are old. This all makes it an $8,000-$8,500 car. However, in this day and age there are a lot of people who will overlook a lot of this (probably not the top though) and may well pay $9,000-$9,500 for it. It would have great appeal to me as a driver at the $8,000 level but I'm not a BaT buyer and, unfortunately, not in a Miata any longer although starting knee replacements next month so might be back in the drivers seat in a year :jump:

Final word - if you do list it on BaT, be prepared to get beat up over the top, shocks, etc..There are nitpicker extraordinaire on that site that live to pick apart any and all cars being listed with no intention of every buying one but that's just life in the Internet age.

^^^^Good overall assessment and advice.

B.

John Bennett

24th June 2022, 11:46

Thank you angelduro, tom4416, hal1, huesmann, sdcrjohn, Bob_MX5, aka_e, and everyone for the excellent advice!

I decided to become a Miata.Net Supporting Member because of the warm welcome and great help. I looked. This is the best Miata forum. :)

https://i.imgur.com/0EdWBU9.jpg

John Bennett

24th June 2022, 12:00

I decided to go with Craigslist and Facebook.

BAT seems like way more work, and I really don't need maximum money. Mainly Dad just wants to convert the Miata into a golf cart for his new hobby of patrolling the neighborhood pestering evening strollers. :)

I'm thinking $8,600 asking price as I'm seeing similar ones selling for $9k in Dallas, Houston, Austin, OKC, and Phoenix. I don't live in a metro area.

Here's the rough draft of my advert:

https://i.imgur.com/lMARMhp.jpg

Does that look okay?

3MiataFamily

24th June 2022, 12:58

That's a good starting point...lots of info in the add..hits the good and the not so good so folks know going in

Good luck !

sdcrjohn

24th June 2022, 13:41

3MiataFamily

24th June 2022, 13:47

Garage kept and no accidents already there...good catch on the 'all original paint' though

Date code on the tires would be good also

sdcrjohn

24th June 2022, 14:30

Oops, missed it. Thanks.

Garage kept and no accidents already there...good catch on the 'all original paint' though

Date code on the tires would be good also

aka_e

24th June 2022, 16:13

Solid ad. Fair ask, good details. You might just avoid some of the stupid/pointless questions. :p

John (as in OP), you've inspired me... I'm a supporting member now too! :thumbs:

tom4416

24th June 2022, 19:07

Remove Bitcoin as a payment source. It sets off alarm bells in us older folks as we really don't understand it and think it's purely for illegal transactions. Bank cashiers checks can be counterfeited in about ten minutes so if that's the payment method, make sure you can contact the issuing bank/branch and verify the check. If accepting cash, do it at your bank and deposit it while the buyer is there - the bank will determine if any of it counterfeit. North Korea counterfeits hundreds of millions in 50's and 100's and it takes a trained eye to detect them which is why they end up in general circulation for a while. And with counterfeit, it's a last man standing that gets screwed situation, even though you might have been an entirely innocent recipient of the bills.

I think you're a little high and would encourage you to accept any offer of $8,000 or more. Good luck with the sale - tell dad to get one of the new lithium powered golf cars, get the speed controller swapped out for a high speed one, put on 12" aluminum mags and street tires, lift kit and it will be the envy of the neighborhood and will cost every bit of the $8,000 you get for the car ;) Golf carts are out of sight at the moment - $10,000 new :eek:

aka_e

24th June 2022, 22:21

^ I think tom's right about removing Bitcoin. As I'm sure you know, cash and cashier's checks are your best bet. If I were selling the car, I'd verify the cashier's check before I let it leave my sight. When buying cars with cash, I've always done it at the DMV in the state of purchase and had the title signed over and notarized there. Your bank branch likely has a notary on-site--I'd call to make sure beforehand--so doing the transaction and signing over the title there would be a one-stop shop for you.

^^ oh, and I second about the golf cart... :p

3MiataFamily

24th June 2022, 22:32

aka_e

25th June 2022, 00:26

John Bennett

25th June 2022, 07:11

Remove Bitcoin as a payment source. It sets off alarm bells in us older folks

That is good advice. I will remove it. Thank you Tom and aka_e. I'm accumulating BTC and hoped to avoid some on-ramp fees. Read here (http://logos.elementfx.com) about my negative experience with Swan Bitcoin.

I agree the price may be a bit steep. I will reconsider that. My intention was to drop the price $200 every week until it sells.

100+ on the Lithium golf cart batteries!

I converted my HAM radio (KI5CSR) to LiFePo4. When the battery arrived from Bioenno, it weighed so little I thought I'd gotten a counterfeit. I'm following Will Prowse (https://www.youtube.com/c/WillProwse/videos) to study golf cart conversions. Amazing stuff.

Bob_MX5

25th June 2022, 09:45

Not all states require a notarized bill of sale..CT for example...just a signature and payment...off you go

Texas too.

I know some of the states in the Northeast do that. That really would make the selling process so much easier. I believe TX requires a notarized title? I've only bought cars out of OH, KY, and AZ, so I'm not sure. If no notarized title needed, then I guess the bank would be the way to go.

No, Sign and pay.

@OP, I recommend cash transfer at the bank or wire transfer. Cashier's check are too easy to counterfeit. Some banks, like mine, even put a hold on them just like personal checks. I also recommend "no bitcoin". Your dad needs cash, greenbacks, the almighty dollar for that "cart". :D.

B.

aka_e

25th June 2022, 11:51

Texas too.

No, Sign and pay.

@OP, I recommend cash transfer at the bank or wire transfer. Cashier's check are too easy to counterfeit. Some banks, like mine, even put a hold on them just like personal checks. I also recommend "no bitcoin". Your dad needs cash, greenbacks, the almighty dollar for that "cart". :D.

B.

No kidding, learn something new every day! :thumbs:

tom4416

25th June 2022, 20:52

That is good advice. I will remove it. Thank you Tom and aka_e. I'm accumulating BTC and hoped to avoid some on-ramp fees. Read here (http://logos.elementfx.com) about my negative experience with Swan Bitcoin.

I agree the price may be a bit steep. I will reconsider that. My intention was to drop the price $200 every week until it sells.

100+ on the Lithium golf cart batteries!

I converted my HAM radio (KI5CSR) to LiFePo4. When the battery arrived from Bioenno, it weighed so little I thought I'd gotten a counterfeit. I'm following Will Prowse (https://www.youtube.com/c/WillProwse/videos) to study golf cart conversions. Amazing stuff.

I don't want to get dinged by the mods for making this into a golf cart thread but tell your dad to check out the forums at Buggies Unlimited. Good information although nothing nearly as informative and helpful as this forum but then, most aren't.

I generally don't like the drop the price every week until it sells. Too many people take note and decide to wait for the "bottom" and see some desperation in the seller. I've always been of the mind that I set a fair price + 10% (which is what you've done) and then negotiate away the 10% at the time of sale. We all have a burning desire to "get a deal" and think we are master negotiators and so will try and beat up the price, not matter what it is. Only twice have I walked up on a Miata sale and gladly paid the asking without a single attempt at even a minor discount.

3MiataFamily

26th June 2022, 18:02

Sold 5 NA last year…set the fair price and never budged on any of them

Two NB this year…set the ask a little strong and only moved a few hundred